The most popular variant of the SL1200 family, the MK2 was produced from 1978 until 2010. Lubricating the mechanism likely wont fix that particular issue, but it will make things run a lot smoother. Unfortunately there is no really easy way to move the arm back and forth. 0 bids. You mentioned the process was different for the SL 10 and variants. You should see the part I mean when you have the lid off, it supports the arm in the up position and moves when you press the arm down manually, its near the tonearm pivot point. Any ideas on adjustments? The Technics SL-1210GAE and 1200G have two features that make them ideal for direct comparisons. But (would you believe it) havent used it much as I got into computers! Without seeing it its difficult to know what specifically to check, Im afraid it will be a case of tracing things electronically to find the issue. I did also choose to replace the platter bearing oil a simple matter of removing the platter and applying some cleaner and fresh oil to the gap beneath the spindle. Quite a lot, some of them will play up-side-down. Again, failing that, youll have to investigate the electronics. Hi there! If this is the same table, then it is likely the silicone fluid in the arm lifter has dried out. With that in mind lets get started. Im not all that familiar with linear trackers but recently scored a Technics SL J92 at Goodwill for a few bucks. Low tracking pressure can cause the stylus to skate, which in turn can make the turntable think the arm needs to lift. It sounds to me like the arm is getting stuck, and to compensate the turntable is trying to pull it forward. r/turntables New Technics SL-1200GR. Is this a lubrication issue or something else? I think this may be related to tonearm sensitivity, as I can hear the click of a micro-switch actuating just prior to auto-stop (when observing like a nervous hen watching her brood). But even though I found many items I needed online, I dont think I would have had the confidence to tackle it, without your article. How is this done? I am the happy owner of a SL-10 aswell. The correct elliptical, assuming youve never changed the cartridge from the original Technics P33 is the EPS-P33ES. by 55nomad 06 Mar 2012 21:55, Post The sensors are located near the arm pivot point but differ from model to model, you should be able to find the parts in the service manual. The lights on the stop button though still work, any ideas? by SlowNorris 07 Mar 2012 20:53, Design and Content Vinyl Engine 2002-2022, Powered by phpBB Forum Software phpBB Limited, HiFi Engine | FAQ | Site Policy | Advertising | Cookie Options. I believe this has graduated to a tonearm sensitivity issue. Youll have to take the lid off to access the belt, which is a tiny square rubber belt on the left-hand side of the mechanism, stretching between the pulley of the tonearm motor and the pulley of the worm gear. Have a nice day. Youll need to carry out the maintenance suggested in this guide. On there you talk about changing the tonearm belt while doing it. Technics SL-1200 / SL-1210 Problems. Found your site and initially thought it sounded a bit daunting (dont know why as I had only just taken my Sony SL-C9 Betamax apart and got that working with no guidence) but after a couple of weeks I purchased a new belt and grabbed the bottle of alcohol. A musician, occasional producer and sound engineer, other hobbies include software programming, web development, long walks and occasional DIY. It pulls the tonearm out a little bit, effectively balancing the stylus forces in the groove. The correct function should be when it reaches the run-out groove it will lift the tonearm and return to the rest. Try cleaning that switch and checking its wiring. It could be a bad contact of the Cover-Switch (the one telling if the cover is closed, the one that is annoying when putting the top-cover back in place). Complete Turntable with a Built-in Phono Equalizer and Cartridge. That looks better. Just glad I didnt have to get into the electronics Cheers and Happy Holidays! Directly to your inbox. or skip in reverse at all. Then check the plunger that allows the arm to drop to see if it is stuck. Glad to hear of another one saved. Vintage Technics SL-Q200 Quartz Direct Drive Automatic Turntable Excellent Tested Works 1980s Tested Works SLQ200. Some other models, such as the J300R, have 2 small pins on either side of the turntable at the back which must be removed using a tiny flat bladed screwdriver. It almost seems like its not recognizing the first track and searches only to drop and drag the stylus somewhere on the 2nd or 3rd track. Next, its time to clean everything. As an Amazon Associate, we may earn commissionsfrom qualifying purchases from Amazon.com. What are the correct measurements for the drive belt? The Technics SL-23 is a lovely turntable and I highly recommend you keep an eye out for one if you're in the market for an affordable and well-engineered deck. The centre plate is pre-cut for all Jelco arms, requiring spindle-pivot distance of 214mm. More posts you may like r/vinyl 12 days ago Why we do it. I have a technics sl-5 Is there a service manual available here? Id stored this machine for 25 years on top of a book shelf, after an eBay find. Thanks in advance! In one case remove the thing that blocks the sensor -- or in the. Designed from the ground up, the new SL1200Mk2 is the design that all further models improved upon. The holder is not moving down to allow the arm to set on the record to play. The easiest way to do it Ive found is to slightly loosen all of the screws that hold the lid (five on most models, 1 on either side and the 3 inside) such that the lid can be moved but is still relatively tight. The track skip and search was my major concern. I realize this is probably answered in the guide, but since this is so specific I thought Id ask. Take a look on eBay as there are a couple of OEM service manuals available for sale which will give you the disassembly instructions and also allow you to make the servo adjustments to restore correct performance. There are micro switches within the mechanism that activate at either end of the arms travel. I dont understand why lifting the lid slightly makes the turntable work properly. The behaviour you describe would occur if that mechanism was sticking or if a grease of too high a viscosity had been used to lubricate it. The inconsistency is rather annoying. Any reason why the arm moves as soon as the power button is pressed on? Yes, sounds to me like its just a lubrication issue. Thats a very strange issue. With regards the stylus drop position, there is usually a small set screw somewhere and turning that will define the drop and lift position. If you stick something over the lid switch so that the table will operate with its lid up, then hit play to drop the arm and gently nudge it inwards, does it move in on its own? The plunge assist part you mention is the correct one, youll spot it easily when you open the deck and look at the mechanics surrounding the pivot point of the arm. and finish the project properly with good quality additions and to your own liking and taste. there seems to be no difference when I manually engage or disengage the switch. Its been great, but sometimes it wont play the first track on an lp record. Interesting. Im not sure there is any professional authority on Technics repairs, which is why I advocate DIY. You're done. She uses it daily, and I couldnt be happier. The rumble is probably caused by dry oil in the main bearing; and to fix, youll need to relubricate the bearing with some suitable bearing oil, such as the SRM-Tech black oil. Guide rails sufficiently lubricated, new belt. Tone arm does not go up and down on its own. Wonderful decks! 1 nevermind4790 9 yr. ago Technically yes, but with an LP60, Crosley, it's much more noticeable. Does the stop button still have the same click feel as the other buttons? Some grease can dry quickly if its too thick, so if you have issues with tracking a couple of days after the repair that is the first thing to check. Likely an adjustment needed to tonearm sensitivity? Onkyo 875; Panasonic 42PZ85; Quad L-ite 5.1 (Bi-amped); Sky HD+; Sony S350; Apple TV; Technics SL 1210 mkII; Denon DL 110; Sumiko Headshell; Chord Silver HDMI; Van Damme blue & Black speaker cable; Mark Grant Sub Lead; D DGZDGZ 2. Try taking the tonearm belt off, engaging the lid switch, and see if the motor will move in reverse; you may have to move the arm past the starting position manually to get the turntable to think its playing. And of course, you could just get a new stylus for the technics cart. Im afraid I dont know of anyone who will work on these turntables, however the adjustments are listed in the service manual. However, this was not the case thanks to the small plastic snaps keeping the cover secure around the clamp area. Certainly worth repairing, that is one of the best Linear decks they made. As you can move the arm manually with the forward and back buttons, Id probably check the tonearm microswitches, in particular the one that is closed when the tonearm reaches the point where it needs to proceed forwards. I cant find a link to it anywhere if you did Id much appreciate the link. Youll need to take the lid off, at which point youll have access to the mechanism. The lid switch was taped shut so to operate the mechanism open. Interesting issue. Thats how I had to move the arm until I got the black gunk off the mechanism. Hi Glenn The washers are used to set the lid height so that when closed the arm assembly is at the correct height to provide optimal tracking force and overhang of the stylus. I had a devil of a time getting that screw back in with my fat thumbs. ;o) What I do recall is that not the lowering mechanism (94) bugged, but that part 105 actioning the lowering mechanism (too clunked up inside around the plunger but it looks heavy duty to open that one up). Grand Class Turntables. Any tips on removing the tonearm drive motor (or perhaps this worm gear assembly)? The cueing lever on top rotates the cam which causes the cueing piston to move up or down, thereby lifting or lowering the tone arm. b) You can remove the spindle completely to carefully center and play a record that was pressed off center. Just bought an SL-10 is great shape (touch wood) with a Technics P23 cartridge. I have a Technics SL DD22 turntable I purchased some time ago and the tone arm will not lower on to the record. My guess would be either the tracking force is slightly out (unlikely), the stylus is worn (possible), or that the tonearm drive belt is slipping (most likely). Not an easy task to locate these lubes here in France but I keep looking. . </p> <p> See . Thanks! And thats it. ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR MIXER FROM THE MAINS BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY SIRVICING OR. Early Technics SL 1200 turntable. Before you replied changed the rail lubricant to this because it more closely resembled your description in post above hopefully it will be okay as well: Right now I am happily listening to Winelight. Beyone removing the lid, is there a way to open the lid more (like a book). You can buy good replica styli from AVA Record Stylus Supplies. An SL-10 serviced correctly wont suffer this problem, so I would recommend leaving the clamp mechanism intact and service the deck properly. I noticed in all the videos I watched that the needle, when the tone arm is locked in the arm rest, sits right on the arm rest and floats over the turntable. I founded Audio Appraisal a few years ago and continue to regularly update it with fresh content. The plunger/dampening mechanism that lets the arm slowly drop down is actually frozen and from another post, I wuold think it is just old lubrication that needs to be cleaned out and replaced. Ill try to document when Im doing it. Its always good to hear a success story and Im glad you got your turntable going again. I had the same issue when I fired up my technics sl5 after years of non use Hello Ashley, I hope youre well since you didnt reply yet. To return the arm, release the switch. After reading your posts I removed the cover and discovered the dial cord had come off. I had this done, along with the main gear cleaned. To reset, put the tonearm in the "up" position, and with the turntable running as normal, quickly push it as far toward the center hole as it will go. Any ideas? 3 Drops of bearing oil were dropped into the tiny gap underneath the spindle, and after turning it by hand for several minutes the motor was free and running like new. Then tighten the two near the hinge and the lid should sit properly. Very frustrating! You can unsubscribe at any time, and your personal data will never be shared. Great information. I wouldnt like it to be too viscous as thats the problem, the mechanism descend and ascend is that slow that the needle scratches over the record when a record is done. Im lucky I have the exact same one. While youre inside, its a good idea to replace the tonearm drive belt. Mine is very loose. Remove the rail, thoroughly clean both it and the inner bearing of the arm through which it slides and lubricate with a thin and even layer of white lithium grease. 25.2K subscribers This is a video showing you how you can change your tone arm on a technics SL 1200/1210 turntable. Yeah, I didn't have to touch the arm assembly either. The information here guided me through a successful replacement of the entire drive mechanism and tonearm assembly, resulting in a fully functional SL-QL1! Buy Technics DJ Decks & Turntables and get the best deals at the lowest prices on eBay! If I fail to sort them myself, do you know anyone in the UK who services and repairs them? The high-sensitivity tonearm achieves high initial-motion sensitivity to precisely trace . Nope, will not move at all, Ive done what youve said. If this doesn't work, then the most probable cause is the damping capability of the cueing lever. You mention that the entire lid can be removed to ease access to the tone arm mechanisms. 2) Set the anti-skating to "0", hold the headshell and unclip the tonearm. Last week, the platter and tone arm on my SL-L3 bought in Germany in 1988 and more or less in continuous use just froze. If this switch is not working properly, the main controller thinks the lid is still open, the only operation allowed in this mode is the simple rotation for cleaning. Thanks a million for the assistance. Will let you know how it turned out. And for the motor and worm drive of the belt? A small bracket beneath the spindle needs to be removed to reveal the C-Clip securing the spindle in place. I don't know if it's possible to do on your model specifically but most decent quality tables work that way. The table is designed to never need to touch the tone arm. Quick question who is the authority on restorations for the SL-10? The recommended tracking force is between 1.8 and 3.5grams When the lid was reinstalled was anything blocking the arm? Weight. Pressing the start button with the lid open should then allow the platter to spin and the arm to drop. Once removed, the same method should be used to remove the small plastic inserts that hold them in place. The tonearm doesnt drop particularly slow. With regard to removing the inside, black cover of the base portion where the platter lives, First, the central puck inside the 45rpm record adapter pop-up needs to be removed (it unscrews via the two holes in the puck inserting a pointed tool in one of the holes and a few _gentle_ taps are all that is needed to get it moving, after which it and the 45rpm adapter along with a spring and a clear, plastic washer can be removed). I just snagged a SL-J3 out of my mothers attic and got it regreased and playing, however I cant get the tonearm motor to return the arm to the starting position. Youll know youre heating the correct part as there is no gap between it and the dust cover window, whereas there is a significant gap on the other side. The recently discontinued AT92 is my favourite of theres, if you can find one. Hard to find a replacement. Let us take you on your journey to rediscover music. The main difference in repair of the SL-10 is that the steps involved in getting at the arm mechanism itself are different. Give Northwest Analogue a try. fit different coloured LEDs (which are different to that of the original design). This is very perplexing! When the tonearm moves to play a track, it will drop down to the beginning of the track but skate on it till the end of the track and then lift up and return to its home position. I press the power button and the red light turn on dimly. I had an RCA plug on my Technics 1210 (Mk2) that had been shorting out, so I decided to open up the player and solder in some new RCA cables. The click indicates that the electromagnet is releasing the arm correctly, but there is a mechanical damped lowering device which allows the arm to slowly drop to the record (see the comment thread below with Phil). As a result the deck will sound quieter and thus more open with the clamp removed. . Thanks. What makes you think it is not positioned correctly? Went to use it today and the arm sticks avter 2.20 minutes of playing! When not touching the arm, it should remain perfectly still in the drop position when the lid is up. Theres another working SL-DL1 and an SL-7 in the house too, so I know how good they can be. I discovered that there is a cloth covered cable that moves the linker arm. The tonearm drive unit is incredibly quiet! If you put a finger on top of the cartridge with the lid open, are you able to push the arm down, and does it rise again when you release it? The arm comes down but the stylus doesn't touch the record. You can hear the click for it to down and the track button light flashes as if it is playing ( it also does this when not in program mode when pressing start to play a record from the beginning). Then lower the lid and ensure it closes properly, pressing down on both front corners and wiggling it back and forth until it is correctly aligned with the turntable base and sitting evenly on the front bumpers with no gaps. Hi! I had to replace the tracking cable because it shredded because of the dried up lubricant. Post links if possible (Amazon, Autozone, etc.) One thing that is slightly perplexing me though is that it appears to be missing the rubber matt that sits on top of the turntable itself. I have one SL10 whose tonearm drops smoothly and slowly onto the record, and I am hoping to improve another otherwise excellent model whose tonearm just drops onto the record. Ive learned quite a bit about these amazing machines by reading the threads on this site and through the act of taking two of these apart. With a bit of maintenance and a new cart I think this might be my forever setup. ALL turntables wear records out because they make contact with the medium. Is it stripped all the way along? Technics 1200 / 1210 Turntable Modifications. Have you tried the deck in manual mode? I have a post on here covering the Technics SL-J300R which offers pictures of a similar mechanism, but its pretty simple. The final step in the maintenance of these turntables is to re-oil the main bearing. For the main rail, you want a grease that can support the weight of the arm and stop it scraping, but that still allows it to move easily. My amplifier DENON PMA 1560 has a phono input but on the front panel it has a mm or mc selector. . you may need to remove the covers over the tonearm assembly and manually move the arm back to the home position by spinning the arm drive motor by hand. Had a new belt, rails have been cleaned and re lubed, the tracking across the record will just not engage! But if I press start ( to play from the beginning ) or enter a track selection, for example #3, and lift the lid ever so slightly and close it, the arm will then drop and play the record! Apply heat for around 30 seconds be careful to get things warm but not too hot. Everything else I have Micro Seiki DD40, AR XA, Empire 208, B&O RX2 (scored at the same Goodwill but I am loathe to use too much because the cart is so rare), and an old Philips 777 are traditional pivot arms. There is an optical sensor (sometimes a small electrical microswitch in cheaper models) which detects when the arm needs to move forward and triggers the motor that advances the carriage. Thats all the regular maintenance these turntables require. Unfortunately unless one of your switches is particularly dirty youre probably going to have to begin diagnosing the electronics, which will vary in difficulty depending on your experience and equipment. Fired it back up again recently and there is a rumble, much like you would get when playing a warped record. The arm tracks just fine across the record to the end then it lifts and returns. Great Savings & Free Delivery / Collection on many items . Areas like the cable guide, plastic worm gear for the linear tracking mechanism, and the record clamp. Will keep it in mind when/if I ever need to crack mine open. No responsibility can be accepted for any losses. Since it is a DD I was worried it may be the motor and ran across this when I was searching for a new motor to put in. i bought this used from a friend and just plugged it into my technics reciever for first time. Remember to mark the current position of any potentiometers before making adjustments so you have a reference point if you make things worse. From the above I have the impression youre talking about 94. I managed to get it to work a little bit but can't quite see how to get in there without removing the entire turntable gear mechanism. Does it move slowly in steps, or does it immediately move quickly towards the centre? Lift up the platter and remove the belt. See if it turns and if the tonearm moves. But it was great fun while it lasted. My plan was a stand alone system with just the turntable and a pair of Kanto speakers with internal amp and Bluetooth. From my short description does it sound within the scope of your maintenance or is it likely something much more complex? Technics Linear Tracking Turntable Maintenance, Click to share on Twitter (Opens in new window), Click to share on Facebook (Opens in new window), Click to share on LinkedIn (Opens in new window), Click to share on Reddit (Opens in new window), Click to share on Pinterest (Opens in new window), http://www.globaldistrict.com/_media/companies/company_0/social_images/arm_schematic_vlarge.jpg, http://www.hattons.co.uk/41989/Woodland_Scenics_HL657_Hob_E_Lube_white_grease/StockDetail.aspx, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fully-Synthetic-Deck-Turntable-Main-Bearing-Oil-5ml-Needle-point-Dropper-Bottle-/181676650883?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2a4cc5b183, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fully-Synthetic-Record-Deck-Turntable-Main-Bearing-Oil-Needle-Point-Bottle-5ml/172485921745?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D40865%26meid%3D29b0087218e7483aa966c64b81115b62%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26sd%3D181676650883, http://www.hattons.co.uk/41984/Woodland_Scenics_HL652_Hob_E_Lube_Dry_White_Lube/StockDetail.aspx. OK. Ill give that a try. That allowed them to make an incredibly lightweight tone arm for their high compliance cart. Hi Ashley Unfortunately, holding the lid switch down when open does allow the arm to track or the platter to spin. Motor seems to work fine, but the tone arm does not lower and stays in up . Grand Class G30 Series. How much eccentricity can these machines tolerate? I used This. Ortofon also made some nice P-Mount carts which you can sometimes find on the second hand market. Glad to have found your blog and someone with background in old Technics Linear Drive Turntables. When the power source stops working, it is generally due to continued used and is commonly caused by a broken circuit or snapped wires. Still a minor issue even after contact cleaning. Little tip; you probably know this already, but its possible to remove the cartridge by removing the small screw on the end of the tonearm, on the left-hand side as you view the open lid from the front. Is the tonearm drive belt easy to replace? It could be that despite a good clean the arm is simply stuck in the home position. Any amount is gratefully received! If it is dirty (if grease fell on it during maintenance for example) it may be malfunctioning and the turntable will compensate by trying to drag the arm inwards because it cant see the position of the arm. It was playing fine right after I bought it, but it then stopped completely. Technics SL-1200 / SL-1210 Area. Click & Collect . Take it apart an see if you can spot either of those issues. If youve followed the diagram you should be good to go. Same line that is used fir beading projects. Mine only has 2 of these remaining, And want to know how this affects proper function. The new/current SL1200G is a high end audiophile table that happens to look like the old DJ table. My table accidentally got unplugged while playing. Hello! Alignment of the lid is important in these decks as if the lid is misaligned it can push the mechanism slightly out of alignment which can cause odd tracking behaviour. Havent adjusted servo gain yet, so that is likely next. If you dont lubricate the contact points in the clamp assembly with a suitable grease (PTFE ideally) you will hear increased rumble. Thoroughly clean and lubricate the arm guide rail and gears, and also remove the tonearm drive motor and drop a couple of drops of oil beneath the pulley to lubricate it too, turning it to ensure it spins freely. Excellent, thank you for your kind words on the article and Im glad you were able to get your SL-10 going! Careful use of some WD40 should un-gum it. Did you do the guide rails also, or are they running with factory grease? Thanks, Ashley for this great resource! The tone arm needs to be cleaned and re-greased for sure.It has hung up in the same place on the first song of three different albums. Or both? Oil the motor that dries the arm by dropping a few drops of synthetic oil beneath its pulley. Is this just a lubrication problem or something more sinister?? Rick SlowNorris member Posts: 40 Joined: 20 Feb 2011 17:42 Location: Kent Despite the problems getting this deck apart, I still maintain that Technics decks are some of the easiest to work on and this wouldve been too if it werent for that record clamp. yeah thats the reason why i was scared to use too high of a viscosity. I noted that you recommended dry teflon lubricant, which is not something Im familiar with (can you recommend one? The cover, with the record clamp attached, should pop right off. Any thoughts? If it's not then the liquid silicone inside the cueing bar could be replaced. Because of it sitting around and not used, the lubrication that was on the drive gears hardened, which caused stress in the cable and it shreds and broke. Spin the platter two full rotations clockwise and then two counter-clockwise. This should allow the belt to hook onto the motor. My issue after a week of spinning vinyl on the SL-10 is that it is not sensing a 45rpm record and its not recognizing when there is no record at all. Can you confirm based on this schematic (http://www.globaldistrict.com/_media/companies/company_0/social_images/arm_schematic_vlarge.jpg ) that its well part 94 and not within 105 that needs to be cleaned and siliconed? cant find a place that would touch my turntable :S. What needs adjusting? Looked into this a bit deeper. You can't set the tonearm down on an empty platter. Now it works perfect and has never missed a track and the rpm speed is spot on. Do you have any suggestions? Im not familiar with that deck but if it has the arm mounted in the lid its not impossible that the wiring has failed somewhere. A lovely surprise. With the turntable up-side-down, removing that C-Clip can at times be difficult as its impossible to get a screwdriver between it and the base of the motor board. It takes some pressure to get it to move, so Im guessing there are times when instead of turning the drive gear, rotation of the worm gear shaft moves the entire shaft laterally instead of turning the gear. I took the base off my SL1500 to do mine, fairly straight forward once you can see what you're dealing with, its satisfying once you've done it :), https://www.vinylengine.com/library/tec tins.shtml. This will help you get a better view of the sides of the cartridge to find out exactly what you have. Havent attempted it, though the service manual should offer the necessary schematics and its a fairly simple circuit. My 310 is working very well, but when the time comes (and funds allow, which partly prompts this suggestion as retips are not cheap) I will be looking at someone like Northwest Analogue, or Expert Stylus. Give it a few clockwise spins, and then a few counter-clockwise spins. When you release the cover-switch, the platter will stop (eventually continue by inertia) and the tonearm return to its rest. I found some pictures on the net of a 'pl-70'. Thanks for the pointer to Mike Powell. The higher the viscosity, the slower the arm will lift and descend. Thanks! I would like to hear if anyone have removed the muting relay successfully and maybe even considered to bypass the MM/MC switch and just hardwire fix it to MC (or MM)? There is also a microswitch usually mounted on the base of the turntable near the hinge that detects whether the lid is open or closed. Thanks again for your time and posting the previous article. Meet the budget-friendly Technics SL-1500C that will only set you back 899 / $999 / AU$2499. 15.00 postage. Thank you. Ground-Breaking Design. Hi had my technics SL QL1for a couple of months, arm moves fine, the stop button though now just wont let you stop the record, so now only way to use it is to press the cue button and lift the lid, the arm moves fine and it moves to the right when lift the lid, do you think the stop button has stopped working? In that case, start by checking switches and sensors. Would it be bad to to sort of soak it with alcohol with a qtip and then relubricate it without disassembling, or would I damage other component? I suspect a cracked solder joint around the button, which will cause the button to work intermittently when the board heats up, which any repairer should be able to spot and solve. These small square belts are readily available online. Or both? I purchased my SL-10 when it was new, probably in the late seventies? Now last week i tried to use them and the sl7 worked well for a couple of days but then no more and when i turned it on the repeat button always blinked and there was no more movement of platter or arm. Once inside, remove all grease and lubrication using 1 of many commercially available cleaners alcohol works best. If the arm cannot move out, that switch isnt released and the turntable wont start up. I also own a Technics sl 10 and would like you to help me with 2 issues if you can. General Technics Turntable Area. Yes, I took off the Shure cartridge. Hi Ashley, a friend of mine asked if I could get his SL10 working, alas, it does not have the original stylus but I found my Shure M95ED stylus fits although the housing is a bit wide. I have gone over everything again on this sl-6 but with same results! Today I have a vague balance problem when listening to MC, which I believe may be cause to the low impedance on MC making it extremely vulnarable to poor contact surfaces of both the relay and switch. smilehood. It should not only tell you the switch positions but should also tell you how and where to check the electronics. Excellent! I just acquired NEW OLD STOCK SL-10 that was never taken out of the box and had the same exact same issue. Technics SL-1200 Armboard, Black - Jelco Fit 205.00 - 220.00 SOLD OUT . It does this no matter what mode its in. The final word on the SL-QL1 project: When I press play the platter does not rotate nor does the arm move. IIRC some models require a special adjustment record but you can get by with trial and error, providing you have the right equipment and knowledge to work safely around the electronics. I have gone over everything again but with same results! Turned on the unit and the platter turned but the arm only moved slightly. I have had it about 16 years after I found it still sealed in its original box on the tip I worked at! Have played three LP sides completely through without premature auto-stop (with fingers crossed very tightly). Is there a way to manually move the arm across other than by rotating the wheel by the motor? You could try Mike Powell or London Sound, both may be able to service them. Not a hard job, just fiddly. Unit powers on, but the turntable speeds is off base. Therefore, begin your troubleshooting by inspecting the power source and determining the cause of its failure. It drops, and plays but wont track across the record. When I try the turntable it both (a) doesnt quite line up with the edge of the record (it falls short) and (b) falls aggressively. Grab a copy of the service manual from Vinyl Engine, and disassemble the lower half of the turntable to remove the main spindle bearing. Also there is a long metal arm in between the tone arm guide rope, visible in your photo above, that is attached to a switch, that for my money does nothing at all right now. Thanks for the help, Also, My technics sl-3 is having major issues. If youre handy with a multi-meter and capable of carefully making voltage checks, the service manual is readily available online and shows the voltage points for the servo system. This device adds a force to your tonearm preventing it from skipping (or 'skating' across) the grooves. That said I would replace the grease with some white lithium grease to reduce wear and keep the deck running smoothly. Do you have one for the tonearm drive belt? I removed the motor and took it apart. Regards, peter. (2,268) $303.29. The bonus is that you get a proper vintage hi-fi classic, some Japanese hi-fi heritage . Check while youre inside that the tonearm motor turns freely. Yes, Vantage are the only company that Ive heard will work on these decks but as you say, sadly no-longer in business. You can check to see whether your tonearm motor is working. Can you confirm please that its well part 94 and not within 105 that needs to be cleaned and siliconed? The best thing to replace that with is probably nylon string or radio dial string. Clean it with isopropyl alcohol and lubricate well with the above oil. The only complication I ran into during reassembly involved the lid switch mounted to the rear of the circuit board, this switch must be fully depressed to allow the upper cover to clear it. They can be disassembled with care. I think these may be different to the slj300r tonearms you also wrote about. Hi Matt yes, it will likely need some maintenance by now. Just need to get the drive belt, have found a website that has them and get a needle p-mount style for it. Very informative article I am wondering if you can you advise on the slow drop arm mechanism on the SL10. Many thanks for your advice Ash Ill get it sorted. Does the tone arm now move down to the record? Should run fine though after a good service, the motors very rarely fail. Spin the turntable to test the belt. The last couple of years the tone arm will not go down from it's resting position. Does the arm drop particularly slowly? You stated that youd cleaned and greased the cogs. Hi, Hello, sir! I have problems with an SL-DL1 and an SL-QL1. With the lid closed, following these steps, the arm does now drop the stylus into the track but still continues inward pulling the stylus out. The track detection mecanism is still faulty (always shows 2 tracks only) but it now works ok in manual mode. i have a technics sl-qd33 k turntable that powers up but the start/stop button flashes and i cant get it to work. For the main bearing: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fully-Synthetic-Record-Deck-Turntable-Main-Bearing-Oil-Needle-Point-Bottle-5ml/172485921745?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D40865%26meid%3D29b0087218e7483aa966c64b81115b62%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26sd%3D181676650883, For the tonearm: http://www.hattons.co.uk/41984/Woodland_Scenics_HL652_Hob_E_Lube_Dry_White_Lube/StockDetail.aspx. This cam freezes up on its shaft due to dried up grease. I can see that the motor that drives the tone arm assembly is not running, indicating that this seems to be a logic problem, ie the tone arm assembly doesnt know its supposed to be moving. Switching the cueing switch does not drop the arm to the platter. It does look like a pretty cool system, if I find one for a reasonable price we might cover it here. I had purchased a tonearm drive belt that was touted to be for the SL-QL1/DL1 (I now doubt this). Donate. The tonearm belt isnt particularly difficult to replace. I only use my turntable maybe about once a month on average for a couple of hours at a time. You've not identified the problem so you have no way of knowing whether it's an easy fix or not. hi i have a couple of linear tracking technics turntables like the sl7 and sl3 which i didnt use for a couple of years. The cartridge that it came with was a Shure, which I replaced with a moving magnet Audio Technica AT 300P, which sounds pretty good. Thanks for the very useful Article. It may need to be cleaned more thoroughly I did three or four 2-way passes before I got mine working. Depending on the Shure model, you might want to also look at the Jico Neo-SAS if they have one available for your model I run both an EPC 310 mk2 and a particularly fine EPC p 202 with Jico SAS and would not be without either of them. Thank you. What kind of purification would you recommend for the sl-10? Once complete, the mechanism should run smoothly, with the arm traversing evenly across the record at a continuous and steady speed. Im glad you found the guide helpful and were able to restore your friends SL-10 to working order. Pitch Control is defective making the sound bad. If the wiring tests good with a multimeter in continuity mode, youll have to work back through the electronics. Thanks! If you loosen them, they can be adjusted by a small amount. Hi there. Your help has gotten me so close to getting this turntable operating and I feel I am right there. a) It's a Technics direct drive changer with a standard 1/2" mount headshell. After I mess with the stylus set-down position adjustment knob and after it warms up a bit, it works fine after that. what is this arms function and could it be a faulty sensor not triggering the reverse motor? excellent! I didnt even know my TT had this switch as it is covered by a plastic plug. Technics I believe used Anderol 465, the same as on the SL-1200 series, which can be obtained from KAB USA and sometimes in small quantities from various outlets in the UK, though here it seems to be hard to come by. I read ptfe for the guiding rod and silicone for the lowering mechanism of the tonearm. Benefit from the functional features of modern turntables or go for the retro charm of classic models. The SL-L20 is particularly easy to service as everything is accessed through the underside. (http://www.globaldistrict.com/_media/companies/company_0/social_images/arm_schematic_vlarge.jpg ) Thank you so much, BR. The SL-7 had a really thorough service by Vantage Audio of Taunton just after I bought it, but unfortunately VA no longer exists. I have found the reference number of the part but I cant find it on the web. I would guess its setting the voltages etc as shown in the seervice manual but any advice appreciated (yes I have access to an Oscilloscope etc as neccessary). . Thanks for your kind words on the site and Im glad you got your Technics up and running again. Glad to hear of 2 more success stories. I would start by taking off the lid cover and checking the photosensors, as if it plays a 12 inch disc I doubt the circuit is failing completely. Unfortunately it is not so simple. This is done by removing the platter, and then the bass of the turntable. I would realy like to get this machine working. These Technics tables have a system in place to detect the record size, and to also prevent you dropping the stylus onto the mat with no record present. If your tonearm motor is operating correctly, the arm should begin to move on its own to the left as it would if it were tracking a record. Is that in the 102 103 105 part (spring with plunge assist) that needs relubrification or the 94 part on the manual? The OM series were manufacturers as P-Mount carts (the OMP10, OMP-20, OMP-30 and OMP-40) and they make very nice replacements. Still difficult to tell whether it dries but it should be fine. Be very gentle as the arm is extremely delicate. Tracking force adjustments dont help. am I missing anything? All that remained was to clean and relubricate the mechanism, and replace the small square-section belt which runs the mechanism. All this particular turntable required was the usual maintenance, as detailed in my post regarding Technics linear tracking turntable maintenance. Just wondered if you had any idea what I could do to resolve this. After some fruitless browsing I came upon your excellent troubleshooting guide and I had no trouble removing the inside cover to expose the circuit board and drive motor which I lubricated with some Q20 and also lubricated the other gears and shafts. Sounds to me like it just needs a service. Do have a tv repair shop, they have fixed a few pieces of audio equipment in the past for me, might ask to see if it is something they could tackle, thanks again, Phil. Genuine replacement belts can be purchased very cheaply online, so its a good idea to replace this while you have the turntable open. Thanks. During the 70s, 80s and even 90s, Technics produced a huge number of linear tracking turntables - many of which are still in use today, and many of which can also be found on the second-hand market. The turntable was much more than a revision of the original 1200, despite the name. Now, I hit the play button, it no longer spins the record. Regarding the cartridges youre mainly limited to Audio-Technica cartridges now. I have played several records all the way through, so I know Im real close! I dont see the lid removal mentioned in the service manual. Then carefully lift the lid and tighten the 3 inside screws, starting with the middle and then the 2 at either side, working in small increments so the lid doesnt move. Also, connect a multimeter in DC voltage mode across the tonearm motor, and see if there is any voltage when it is operated in reverse. Id recommend you replace the belt, and thoroughly clean and apply fresh grease to the mechanism. A few turns and some fresh grease, and both were back to making music. Technical Details Technics SL-1500C Turntable Technics SL-1500C Price: ca. Nylon string or radio dial string works also. That said replacing the external cables is an easy task if youre handy with a soldering iron. Motor randomly slows and lurches. Good evening. I diagnosed a worn belt so I replaced it. General Discussion Area. The tonearm tracks (moves left) and drops, but it doesnt stop it just drags across the LP. There are steps in the service manual to guide you through adjusting the servo gain (tonearm movement) if you have a digital multimeter. I suspect that your particular turntable is fitted with a sure M92 or V15 (dont quote me on those numbers, theyre just off the top of my head). I still have to check the raise/lower mechanism grease. Youll need to clean out the main bearing fully before applying that bearing oil as it is different to the stock oil. One odd thing I noticed is under the rubber platter mat (which is mostly dried out now) there were some oil patches. First, I set the Technics SL-1210GAE and SL-1200G side by side, hooked up to one of three separate phono preamplifiers with multiple inputsthe Pass Labs XP-27, the Allnic Audio H-5500 and the Brinkmann Edison Mk. Forum Policies, Rules, and Terms of Service. by 55nomad 06 Mar 2012 21:00, Post Nice! I have a same problem. I replaced the RCA cables on my 1200 but I didn't need to remove the arm assembly. Thanks again its people like you saving these gems from the dump! With a record on the platter, hold down the start button and see if the arm moves across the record. Return and secure the tonearm. There is a screw attached washer that slots into a groove in the cover at the clamp housing. FWIW, on my SL-10, which I just had open to replace the tonearm drive belt and deoxit the MC/MM preamp switch, removing the 12 screws inside the top cover, and then just slightly sliding/nudging the covers record clamp housing/carrier toward the tonearm-at-rest direction, releases the cover from the central clamp. The contacts can then be cleaned with an abrasive pencil and itll work like new. Thats all for now e sure to share your maintenance tips in the comments below! I have had to work on several tables, and I only have Lucas #2 grease and white lithium. Don't know what proper setting on back knob should be. Any advice? I purchased my last bottle of tonearm damping fluid from SRM/Tech here in the UK. do you get any lights? The tonearm rail and gears are coated with a layer of thick grease which, after 25 years, forms a dry, sticky substance. My particular turntable simply refused to move its arm. Had to tread the cable around, have patients. So, it is not like it is wore out. The problem with these turntables is that everything has to be exactly right for them to function. I replaced both belts and cleaned all the old grease. Hi thanks for the reply. Id start by cleaning and lubricating the mechanism anyway, regardless of whether it moves. As for the tracking force, these are very difficult to measure due to their design. Not sure what or where the switch is the signals the are to move, but I have a feeling it would be in the area. Ive used 200K and 300K with success. Alternatively, change the cartridge to something like an AT311EP, once youve fixed the dragging issue of course. I purchased a Technics SL-QL1 off of eBay for $79, knowing fully that it was not in working order. My Audio-technica AT-LP60X won't go down :( any advice? Its not particularly difficult to remove depending on your turntable model, accessing the mechanism usually involves removing either the mechanism cover from inside the lid, the lid itself, or both. Peter. Connecting with Denon to phono the choice which should be mm or mc. Put a drop or 2 of turntable bearing oil on the bearing end, and replace the bearing bracket. It _is_ necessary to be aware and mindful of the switch that slips through the upper cover at the hinge side, toward the base. I pipe it through a Technics SU-5 amp and SH-E5 EQ linked to Technics SB-F5 speakers (again, these speakers are amazing and cheap if you can find a pair, another secret). Brands and Makes. Nostalgia is hard to resist. This model is valued because. I have a sl-6 which I have owned since new (1983) and has always operated well until recently. Hope you are able to help please? Any ideas where I might be able to source one, or at least what the part number is? Technics Turntable Service Contact us by email at help@electronicsrepairshop.com.au or use the booking form to make an appointment. Despite its non-working status, the price was such that I simply couldnt refuse and, having experience with linear tracking turntables of this nature, I was confident I could restore it to full working condition. Installed this belt and made a slight adjustment to the tonearm offset angle screw along with cleaning the lid closure switch contacts and adding a spot of light oil to the drive motor shaft. I cannot bring myself to get rid of it. I've run into an issue that I can't find any information on. Each day the discovery of a truly emotive experience from an unencountered sound awaits. I played around with the small weight dials at the end of the arm and it remains in a locked position on the holder. Im guessing youre referring to the string / rope that pulls the arm. Sorry to bother you but you saw one of the few who can give me this information. If, after following the instructions in this guide your turntable runs smoothly and sounds good, its generally safe to assume its running within spec and that, for now at least, adjustment isnt necessary. Thanks so much for the info. Promotions, new products and sales. I too had to do repair work on not one, but two of these little beasts last year. Thanks again! Hitting the "stop" button returns the arm to the cradle. Weak point? You mention in the article you will be following up with a tutorial on the ajustment of the track detection mechanism. theyve really helped me understand how the mechanism works. This is a wonderful turntable and a novel bit of TT history. It's also $4000. If the cord is tight, but the arm is still not moving, you may need to remove the tonearm rail, clean both it and the guide on the tonearm itself, and apply some fresh grease. It could be the guide rope that pulls the tonearm along, check that it isnt snagging or stock with dry grease. What should I look at next? I am Christos from Greece and thank you very much for your time. Youll see a microswitch at the end of the arms travel. If, like me, you opened the turntable with it resting on its lid and the buttons facing you, the part youre looking to heat is the part closest to you on the left, nearest the arm. On these Yamaha turntables, the arm rest does not allow the arm to go into the down position - it is necessary to move the arm off the rest. Is the microswitch working correctly and being triggered at the right time? That said if you have some experience with electronics, you can find the service manual for your J300R linked at the end of my SL-J300R Review. Thats an odd issue, not seen that before. Maybe this guy wants a modern, cheap turntable. Upgraded styli are available from several places online. Discussion in 'Audio Hardware' started by RobboT514, Jan 2, 2016. If the issue persists, remove the main circuit board and spray the pushbuttons and switches with contact cleaner. Make sure to get every last drop of old bearing oil from inside the spindle hole. Think the stylus is gone. In fact I had a customer yesterday with exactly the same problem. I think the lp60 arm was built with the mindset less care will be involved with its handling. Lubricating the main platter motor doesnt hurt either, though thats a significantly more involved process. The main cause of mechanical failure in these turntables is dry lubrication. Yes I tried it with an Lp on the platter but nothing happens when i press start. Using an Ortofon TMC-200 which I can only recommend! If you enjoy the content on this site and want to help us stay online, please consider making a donation. Thanks for posting this. Took it apart using your assistance and the Vinyl Engine manual (first service EVER), cleaned off decades of black gunk from the tone arm and cleaned up the main bearing. Subscribe to our newsletter. Clean the lid open detection switch at the back of the unit with contact cleaner. Please see This Post for a detailed rundown of our reference system. The tonearm does have movement left to right and when I push down on the tonearm it does come up when I release it. Radio dial string works fine for this purpose, and there are guides in the service manuals (available online for most models) showing how to restring the mechanism should it require it. Any ideas anyone? I am in Cape Town on a very cold but sunny mid-winter day. (66) 66 product ratings - SFPRT17201K Genuine Technics Tone Arm Rest INC SCREW Fits SL 1200 SL 1210. Issue 3: The Tonearm Drops Too Fast If the tonearm is lowering too fast, this can also be a symptom of an issue with the bridge, so try the bridge adjustment screw as a first quick check. Secondly the power supply can be upgraded to provide a much smoother drive to the motor. Great info on these turntables, I currently have a SL-QL1 and the related SL-DL1 both in excellent shape, however the built in Phono Interconnects look like they could be upgraded. Technics Turntables. That manual should show the necessary adjustments. TURNTABLES HEADPHONES WIRELESS EARBUDS Rediscover Music with Technics Music is borderless and timeless, touching people's hearts across cultures and generations. 100k or 200k or 300k? Thanks for your response. The manual states that removal of the 12 setscrews should allow the cover to simply lift away, revealing the mechanism beneath. Really as long as it doesnt dry sticky it will be fine, the carriage needs to have as fee movement as possible along the guide rail. Removal of a single screw behind the arm motor allows that circuit board to be lifted from its resting place, allowing you to unplug its cables and tilt it up out of your way. 3) Move the tonearm is if you were to play a record from the beginning. Next, replace the spindle and its C-Clip. I dont think Ive ever seen a Technics with a bad motor. where did you source yours from? The correct service manual for your turntable is invaluable at this point many of which can be obtained from Vinyl Engine. I was thinking of replacing it with an upgraded (elliptical) stylus, but there arent a lot of choices for this model. This applies to the cueing piston, also. I have received the 200k silicon now just need a little time now to open up the machine again. Ha. have ordered some Radio Dial Rope that is a little thinner and some brass crimps. The easiest, and least damaging way I found to remove the cover was to heat the area around the clamp to soften the plastic and allow it to come free. Id appreciate advice. TECHNICS RECORD PLAYER TURNTABLE PROFESSIONAL SERVICING, MAINTENANCE AND REPAIR. The lid is level when closed. Thanks for this Rick, very useful advice. Can you confirm hey are okay? Firstly, Id recommend a hair drier rather than a heat gun, as most heat guns do not have a temperature control and heat to a minimum of 200 degrees C. That is enough to melt and deform the plastic cover. I think the motor was bound but seems to work freely now. Then the motor that drives the platter moves a little. Once all 12 screws are removed, take a hair drier and heat the circular area situated to the right of the record clamp as you look at the turntable from the front. Hi, I have a big problem on my SL-QL1 turntable.The arm drive rope is broken. So the option on the sl 10 button is mc. The tone arm mechanism moves smoothly along the rail, using the forward and back buttons, however, the tonearm assembly does not move during playback. This is very helpful tutorial. Theyre pretty generic, small square section belts used for example in VCR and CD player loading mechanisms, so any decent repair shop should be able to help you out if you cant find one on eBay. (There are no levers to put it down) . The table should be fine, it likely needs a bit of silicone fluid in the lifter mechanism. The issue Im having usually happens when I first turn on the turntable. This is the best turntable I have ever had but its giving me a problem at the moment. Its been such a long time since Ive seen the inside of an SL-10 that Im struggling to remember exactly how the drive cord is installed. 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